Lakhbir was driving faster than usual. Perhaps it was running late and he had wanted me to see the place before sun down. In a way, I was thankful for it as it meant I'd be heading for my hotel sooner.
I was begin to soak in the atmosphere of the shops leading up to Fatehpur Sikri when I was rudely interrupted by groups of men shouting at my car. As I looked up, I shocked to find a man running into the path of the car and attempting to stop it with his own bare hands. Lakhbir drove through without second thoughts, almost ramming through the group of men who were attempting to pull back the car with their hands. There were shouts as Lakhbir stepped on the accelerator, only to bring the car up to speed.
I was stunned for a moment. What happened? I asked Lakhbir why they stopped us. He coolly replied, "They are guides."
I understood what that meant. And I was thankful that Lakhbir sped through. It was perhaps coming to the end of the day, and these guides must have been hungry for their last opportunity to earn some cash before Fatehpur Sikri closed. Like my car, others must have sped through too, and to see them so desperate made me feel sad that they had to resort to this. Still, I couldn't imagine what would have happened if Lakhbir hadn't bravely sped through.
It was some 300m from where that happened before I reached the gates of Fatehpur Sikri. When Lakhbir stopped, I was apprehensive about leaving the car. The thought of having to be hassled again made me tired. But I braced myself, knowing it was the last leg for the day. Plus, I knew where I'd be heading next would be a wonderful world heritage site. I couldn't wait to check in.
An elderly man that looked very much like a school discipline approached me, offering to be my guide. By then, I knew what the market price was and despite him quoting me a price of 295 rupees, I flatly told him 100 rupees. He told me to listen to him first, then I could pay him what I wanted at the end of the tour. In my head, I decided that I'd pay him about 150 rupees if he was good.
My guide told me that Fatehpur Sikri was made up of two sites - Fatehpur (meaning City of Victory) and Sikri. He showed me the palaces of the king, the places where they enjoyed performances, the rooms of the concubines, the kitchen of the cooks, and the unique architecture that cleverly integrated design elements drawn from the Chinese, Muslims, Portuguese, Hindus and Persians.
The site was spread across a very large land area...
My guide explained each location within the site carefully, and I would have liked him more if not for the fact that he decided that he wanted to hold on to my camera. "I'll take the pictures for you. I'll tell you when you can take the pictures and when we should walk."
Gulp. OK. Not only did he look like a school master, he acted like one!
Behind me lies the site of Sikri, a holy site that housed a white marble mosque. (Notice my smile isn't as wide cos I wasn't quite happy I had to pose in the way he wanted, and where he wanted!)
My guide walked at a really fast pace and it was only after a while did I realise it was perhaps the site was about to close. My legs were aching from a whole day of walking and the brisk walk made my calf muscles tense up. Still, I followed him closely. Somehow, after seeing the group of men trying to stop my car, I was afraid I would be left defenseless if left alone.
I had to take off my shoes before entering the second site. My guide then brought me to one of the men who was selling cloths. Jayant did tell me about a little donation I could make at the white mosque, so I wasn't surprised when he asked me to make a donation. All I needed to do was to pick a fabric, and he would pack it up with some flowers and three pieces of thread, each representing a wish I could make inside.
I chose the smallest cloth, since he said it would be donated to make children's clothing. But the man insisted that I took the medium sized cloth instead, which he said would go to the women. He happily packed it all up and told me what I should do in the mosque, and asked to be paid 1100 rupees! I was shocked. I could almost cry at that time. I didn't know how to say no to three men, including my guide who were surrounding me, telling me the donation is for a good cause and that I'd be blessed.
Not that I didn't want to donate. I just didn't realise that it'd be so much! And with it going towards charity, it just felt wrong to bargain. Still, I felt uncomfortable, and relented, digging out the 1100 rupees from the envelope in my bag where I kept my spare cash.
Another man then led me into the mosque while my schoolmaster-looking guide hung on to my camera. For a moment, I was afraid I'd never get to see it again. In the mosque, I did what I was told and tied the strings on the marble-latticed walls. I was told not to tell the wishes to anyone, so that they will be granted.
The White Mosque - made entirely out of marble...
I heaved a sigh of relief when all of it ended and I saw my guide (with my camera still). He asked me to take out 10 rupees to give to the man outside the site who took care of my shoes. I handed it to the man who kindly gave me my shoes back.
I hardly had worn my shoes when I realised my guide was already some ten step ahead. I stumbled after him just to keep up. He led me back to the first site and along the way, told me that he could tell my future. At the end of the tour, he asked when I'd return. I told him that since he could tell my future, he would know! He then took a glance at me and said slowly, "You have a good future. Five years time. You will come with your husband."
I laughed in my heart. But he didn't wince a bit. He must have been serious. I wondered how much of this will come true!
I was truly happy to spot the turquoise shirt when I emerged from the site. Lakhbir was waiting for me and the sun was just about to set. It was getting dark.
I noticed that Lakhbir hadn't topped up the petrol, and was really worried I would have to stop halfway to push the car if we ever did run out of it! As though he read my mind, he swung into a very basic petrol station. Not the kinds you'd find in Singapore, but a really simple one. Nothing more than a shed, two pumps and a few chairs strewn around a basic plot of land covered in sand.
Lakhbir sounded his horn for the petrol attendant to assist him. A man popped his head out of the shed and waved his hand. They had run out of petrol!
Lakhbir decided to head to the Laxmi Villa Palace hotel, much to my relief. The day was a tough one. And I needed a well-deserved rest. It was pitch dark when I reached the hotel so I couldn't quite see what the architecture was like. Lakhbir parked his car at the adjacent car park while I made my way to the hotel. I told him to pick me up at 8am the next day. As I walked, I wondered where Lakhbir would stay for the night. Would he have food?
The man at the reception was warm and friendly. They had my room reserved and promptly led me to my room. It was on the ground floor facing the courtyard. It began to drizzle and it was getting cold. And when the man opened the door to my room, I knew it was all worth the wait.
The Laxmi Villa Palace...
I was hungry and really looking for the chilli masala toast that Jayant was talking about. I settled my backpack and freshened up a little before heading to the dining room. There, I ordered the toast and a serving of naan. I didn't realise it'd be such a huge serving! The waiter frowned when I couldn't finish up what I had ordered and I felt bad that I was wasting food. In my heart, I wished someone would be finishing up the spares.
My Dinner...
I updated the happenings for the day on my PDA while having my dinner. It was nice that after a long day, I was able to compose myself to a state of calm. The dining room was silent and I could faintly hear the sound of the falling rain.
Jayant called up to check that I was all OK. He was proud of what I did that day, and said this would be my most adventurous day. I was glad. I had much for the day. I didn't really want to be hassled again.
The day must have really drained me physically and psychologically. I laid on my bed for an hour and a half, not even wanting to do anything else. I decided I should have a good nights' sleep so I dragged myself out of bed, headed for a warm shower before turning down the lights and going to bed.
Tommorrow will be a nicer day, I am sure!
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