The roads in Agra are far dirtier than Delhi. The road system was also messier and more congested. Or perhaps it was later in the day that saw the roads busier. The sun was scorching hot when I reached The Red Fort of Agra. This stop would be more challenging as compared to the previous site since I was to get a guide at the gate and buy my own tickets.
But as expected, a guide approached me as I stepped out of the car. Where Lakhbir had parked was quite a distance from the entrance where I was to buy my tickets. And throughout the way, this persistant guide insisted that I should hire him.
Jayant had instructed me to get a guide at the gate, but choose one I could understand, since not all guides spoke English well. This one that stuck by me sounded OK. I asked for his rate, and he quoted me 295 rupees, far more than the 100 - 150 rupees Jayant told me I should be paying. I told him he was too expensive and he finally pushed it down to 200 rupees, saying that I could pay him whatever I wanted after the whole tour. He guaranteed I'd be satisfied with his service.
My guide seemed experienced. He got me the combined ticket Jayant was talking about and breezed me through the long queues. I asked him how is it I needn't queue up to get my tickets and he told me that he's been working there for years, and so was familiar with the people and place.
THE RED FORT OF AGRA
This fort was built by the Mighty Mughal Emperor, Akbar the Great, and comprises an amalgamation of buildings and palaces, which were built by Akbar, Jahangir, Shah Jahan and even Aurangzeb. Built with red stand stone, the fort was built ingeniously to protect the royalty behind the fort. It was surrounded by strong high walls, and double ditches, one filled with crocodiles! My guide also explained to me the slopes towards the entrance, to facilitate the rolling of big boulders should enemies enter through the gate. Above, there were square spouts, through which hot oil will be poured on their enemies. He also pointed out where soldiers would station to shoot their arrows at their enemies. It seemed it was a place of no-mercy.
Spouts through which hot oil will be poured on enemies...
The double ditches which would hold water and crocodiles
The entire place took 95 years to build, from the different palaces for the different wives, to the gardens and the fort. It was interesting to see the mix in architecture, and I was beginning to get used to identifying patterns to represent the different culture/religion - elephant trunks (hinduism), stars (islam), arrow-head stripes (portuguese).
Design elements in the architecture
Intricate carvings on the red stone
My guide pointed out the gardens, in which grapes were once planted, not made for wines but for concubines to feed the emperors with grapes as they were entertained.
My guide told me he could bring me to a special palace, not open to the public. I asked him how he could get in. Again, he emphaised the fact that the people at the fort knew him, and so he could bring me to special places. Before I knew it, I was whisked into a dark room with four other caucasians. My guide seemed to be an expert at this. He lit the candles and explained that we were in the Glass Palace, where the wives of the emperor would take their turkish bath - warm bath, cold bath, both scented with rose water. At the sides, concubines would dance to the beat of the hitting of the hollow walls at the sides. Cleverly, these functioned as drums. Then my guide asked us to look at the ceiling, and he began to move his arms in circles. The light from the candles reflected onto the thousand of mirror pieces on the walls and ceilings and it seemed like a million stars were looking down on us. Simply magical.
At The Glass Palace - light reflected on the ceilings as my guide "dances" with the candles...
Well, all seemed magical til my guide pulled me one side and asked me to pay 500 rupees to the guard who opened the palace for us. I was shocked, but I knew I've been trapped. He told me the caucasians would be paying much more. I didn't want to know how much more!
My guide cooly continued the tour and I was also showed the place where Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son, a room facing the Taj Mahal, so he could see it being built even if he was under house arrest.
Here's the view of the Taj Mahal from the Agra Fort
The tour around the Agra Fort soon ended and my guide wished me well. He said I was like his daughter and he'll pray that I'll find a good man to marry soon. I guess it was odd for them to see a 31 year old girl travelling alone and single!
I paid the guide 250 rupees in the end. I felt bad as he was a good guide sans the Glass Palace incident. I took a picture of him just in case I had to find him again for future visits.
My guide at the Agra Fort...
As I left the fort, I was again hounded by men who wanted to sell me things. I was looking out for information on the fort since I didn't think I'll remember all that has been said. I chose a booklet of 12 postcards which had information on the fort. I was quoted a price of 100 rupees which I duly paid. After that, as I walked away, a few others followed me, trying to sell me bangles, wood carvings and other souvenirs. It was then did I realise that the booklet I bought could be bought at 50 rupees! I had forgotten to bargain! It was no wonder these men must be thinking this is one tourist they could easily fool!
Feeling cheated in more ways than one, I headed back to the car. Lakhbir asked me how much I paid the guide. I told him 250 rupees. He mumbled that it was too expensive. I should have just given him 100 rupees. Lesson learnt.
LUNCH AT THE SHERATON HOTEL
Lakhbir dutifully dropped me off at the Sheraton Hotel for lunch. Jayant promised I'd need a little civilization after that much of roaming around on my own. He was right. I appreciated the clean toilet, the quietness and the politeness of the staff. I ordered myself a club sandwich and tapped on my PDA the happenings that have happened so far.
My club sandwich - which I couldn't finish. The restaurant manager later told me the serving is usually for two persons.
I told Lakhbir to pick me up at 2pm and so I had some 15 minutes before he arrived. I was walking around the hotel lobby when a shopkeeper selling pashmina shawls pulled me in. He made me try on few shawls and wanted to sell it to me at 1400 rupees. I didn't really want to buy any because I was warned that things in Agra were more expensive, not to mention it being at the Sheraton. I bargained it down to 800 rupees, telling the man it was a lucky number for chinese. He asked for a hug and when he did, pressed his groin against me. I was shocked but smiled anyway.
Walking out, I wondered how the rest of the day would go. I was beginning to feel that I was an easy target for the local Indians.
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